Hair care and restoration

Know your hair and scalp first

Most hair mistakes come from treating the scalp and the lengths as one thing. They are not: the scalp is living skin that makes oil, while the lengths are older, drier fibre that can only be protected, not healed.

• Scalp: oily by the evening of day one, fine for two or three days, or tight and itchy? This decides your shampoo and how often you wash.
• Texture: fine hair is weighed down easily and needs light products; thick or coarse hair takes richer ones.
• Shape: straight hair lets scalp oil travel down; wavy, curly and coily hair stays drier at the ends and usually needs more moisture.
• History: bleaching, frequent colouring and daily heat all make lengths more porous — they soak up water fast, tangle and break.

A quick check: take a hair that has fallen out naturally and gently stretch it while dry. If it snaps almost at once, it is lacking moisture and elasticity; if it stretches a lot and does not spring back, it may be over-processed and needs protein-rich care and a trim.

A washing routine that doesn't damage

1. Wash as often as your scalp needs — daily is fine for an oily scalp if the shampoo is mild; there is no need to 'train' hair to go longer.
2. Shampoo the scalp, not the lengths. Massage with fingertips (not nails) for a minute; the foam that runs down cleans the ends enough.
3. Conditioner on the lengths only, from mid-length to ends. Leave it for a couple of minutes and detangle with a wide-tooth comb while it is on.
4. Rinse with warm, not hot, water. A cooler final rinse feels pleasant, though the real difference comes from gentle handling.
5. Dry by squeezing with a soft towel or a cotton T-shirt. Then let hair air-dry partly before using a dryer.

If your scalp is oily but your ends are dry, that is normal — use a gentle clarifying shampoo on the roots once a week or two and a richer conditioner on the ends.

Masks, oils and ingredients explained

Hair care labels become much easier once you know three groups:

• Moisturisers (humectants) — glycerin, aloe, panthenol. They help hair hold water and feel softer.
• Protein — hydrolysed wheat, rice or silk protein, keratin. They temporarily patch weak spots in damaged hair and add strength. Too much protein can make hair stiff, so alternate protein masks with moisturising ones.
• Emollients — oils and butters, silicones. They smooth the surface, reduce friction and seal in moisture. Silicones are not 'bad': they protect from heat and tangling; if hair feels heavy, a clarifying wash removes build-up.

A simple weekly plan: one mask a week on clean, damp lengths for 10–20 minutes; if hair is very damaged, alternate moisture and protein weeks. Oils work best on the ends — a few drops on damp or dry hair, not a thick layer on the scalp, which may clog and irritate it if you are prone to dandruff.

Heat, colour and everyday habits

The page above already covers heat protection and gentle combing. A few more habits that reduce breakage:

• Lower the temperature of irons and dryers to the lowest setting that still works for you, and never iron hair that is still damp.
• Soft ties without metal parts; change the position of your ponytail so the same spot is not pulled daily.
• Silk or satin pillowcase, or a loose braid for sleep — less friction, fewer tangles in the morning.
• Colour and bleach — space appointments out, and ask for bond-protecting treatment during lightening. Do a strand test and a skin allergy test before home dye, every time, even with a familiar product.
• Trim the ends every two to four months. Split ends cannot be glued back; cutting them stops the split travelling up.
• Sun, chlorine and salt water — a hat in strong sun, and rinse hair with fresh water after swimming.

If you like to time haircuts by the lunar rhythm, our guide to cutting hair by the moon explains the tradition.

Hair shedding: what is normal and what is not

Seeing hair in the brush and the drain is normal: hair grows in cycles, and some strands are always resting and falling out. What matters is change.

• Sudden diffuse shedding two to three months after illness, high fever, childbirth, strict dieting, surgery or severe stress is common and often settles on its own as the cycle resets.
• Food matters. Very low-calorie diets and too little protein or iron can show up in hair. Eat regularly and enough; supplements are best taken after a blood test, not at random.
• Tight hairstyles worn for years can thin the hairline — loosen them early.

A simple routine by hair type

• Fine, oily-at-the-roots hair: frequent washing with a gentle shampoo, lightweight conditioner on the ends only, a volumising spray instead of heavy oils.
• Dry, thick or coarse hair: washing less often, a creamy conditioner every time, a leave-in cream and a weekly mask.
• Curly and coily hair: detangle only with conditioner on, apply leave-in and styling products to soaking-wet hair, dry with a diffuser on low or air-dry; many people prefer co-washing between shampoos.
• Bleached or chemically treated hair: alternate protein and moisture masks, always use heat protection, and book regular trims.

Start with the basic version, watch your hair for a month, then change one thing at a time.

When to see a doctor or trichologist

Please book an appointment with your doctor or a dermatologist if:

• hair comes out in clumps, or you notice round bald patches;
• your parting is widening, or the hairline is receding;
• shedding lasts longer than a few months;
• the scalp is red, painful, very flaky, scabby or itchy;
• hair loss comes with tiredness, weight change, feeling cold, or changes in your cycle — a blood test for thyroid function, iron stores and other markers may be suggested.

Many causes are treatable, and early help usually means better results. For the rest, gentle consistency wins; combine it with a calm home care ritual and your hair will show the difference over months, not days.